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Fashion
Interview With Logan Neitzel
Idaho is known for it's potato farms, hard work ethic, and gemstones. Uprooted from the golden soil of Idaho- and transplanted 2,500 miles away into New York City's avant garde fashion scene- lives a reflection of Idaho's friendliness and no-nonsense values. Logan Neitzel.
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Logan grew up in a small town in Idaho. “So its Southeast Idaho- the town was called Blackfoot” he says in a nonchalant way. “ So that’s where I was born and raised. That’s where my parents are both from as well. I was there till I was 17, then moved to Jackson Hole, Wyoming- 'cause I was a big big snowboarder- and did that for a while. Then I ended up in Seattle for about seven and a half years, and I've been here in New York two and a half years.”
Comparing Idaho fashion to New York fashion is an interesting study. Idaho's fashion- though much more diverse in major cities- is more utility driven in general. Logan agrees. “People are making things and using things where- you know- its more function over fashion. The weather's a lot harsher there, and its just a totally different environment.” So how does a young man growing up in the small town of Blackfoot, Idaho (population: almost 12,000) enter the glamorous world of fashion and land in New York? Logan: I originally kind of started interest in design there (Blackfoot, Idaho) just shopping with my grandma and my mom when I was younger. And then, it kind of evolved into more of an action sports interest. But yeah, not a whole lot of fashion going on. Especially Southeast Idaho. I mean Boise's a little bit bigger city, so obviously you get a little bit more fashion out there, but its pretty slim pickings from where I'm from. Copeland: We'll return to the topic of your design roots in Idaho, but your current line is actually very reminiscent of a lot of respected Japanese designers. It has a very industrial chic feeling. Where did you find your inspiration for this line? |
Logan Neitzel- 4 years old
“People are making things and using things where- you know- its more function over fashion. The weather's a lot harsher there, and its just a totally different environment.”
-Logan |
Select items from Logan Neitzel's currently available collection.
Watch for updates at logannietzel.com |
LN: I think that, at that point when I was designing that collection it was kind of an experimental process with leather, and just taking something that’s normal, raw texture, and almost using something that most people would kind of think- may be unfinished. I think the inspiration behind that whole collection was kind of shadows and just a little darker collection, and just kind of playing on androgyny as well, you know. That collection was pretty experimental, but I think its been pretty cohesive...
C: How are you able to be so versatile- switching totally different genres of design- and still maintain your aesthetic or style? LN- Well, I think since I've been here in New York my style has become a little bit more refined. But I still like touching on things that I've always been interested in... using real raw leathers and thicker hides that are not perfect finished lambskin. I think that the most current collection was a juxtapose of that. Something like making a perfect silk dress and putting some very raw leather like macramé over the top. I just thought that that was kind of an interesting concept. Making something that was perfect and taking something that’s imperfect and layering the two, and just seeing where it goes. C: Do you still keep a sketchbook by your bed at night for flashes of inspiration?
LN: Yeah, totally. I have a vivid imagination, so a lot of inspiration comes sporadically, and I never rush my process of creating a collection or creating an inspiration. I just kind of let it come to me naturally. In two days I can figure out a whole collection, or sometimes it'll take a month and a half before I narrow it down. But yeah I dream. Especially when its creating collections and things like that. I'll wake up in the middle of the night and a piece is finished and I just have to get it out of my head- otherwise I'll either forget it or it'll just like drive me crazy... C: What do you feel then makes an interesting and engaging garment. LN: It could be tons of things. I think for me and my aesthetic and my collections its... well I don't use print usually. So its more or less the cut and the lines. Then maybe I'm using like two fabrics that are opposite ends of the spectrum. I like definitely mixing and matching, and its interesting when I actually do the collection. When I'm building the pieces, I still have to sell clothing, so I still really enjoy and am respectful of old world craftsmanship. C: Does this come from having professional working origins with major clothes manufacturers or do you like to just have a practical side to your designs? |
"...And I never rush my process of creating a collection or creating an inspiration. I just kind of let it come to me naturally. In two days I can figure out a whole collection..."-Logan
LN: I appreciate super avant garde, but at the same time I definitely appreciate wearability. I think that there’s a fine line- and I never necessarily build a piece that couldn't be worn. That’s important to me.
C: So what do you find interesting to do in the city, and are there any places that you like to eat in the city?
LN: Well, trying to think... Things I like to do in the city... I ride my bike everyday. When I first moved to New York, my studio was on 39th and 9th and I was there seven days a week- all the time- and it kind of affected me you know. Just a change of pace, change of space. A change of so many different things.
The longer I've been here, the more I started to realize that riding your bike everywhere just gives you such a different perspective on the whole city. So, as far as places and areas that I enjoy hanging out... I've always kind of been the type of person that doesn't want to surround himself with people that are maybe the same age or just interested in the things I like. If I'm going to a bar, I would rather sit at a bar with a bunch of old fishermen than a bunch of 22 year olds. Monday I was all the way down in China Town eating dumplings and then for dinner I rode my bike all the way up to 116th- Spanish Harlem to get tacos. So I'm kind of all over the place. I try to be savvy about exploring places that aren't the hottest spot around.
C: I think I already know the answer to this question anyway, but what is your favorite material to work with, and what makes you connect with that material?
LN: (Laughter) Leather obviously. I just have a long history with it. Plus some of the first things that I ever made when I was a kid even, were leather moccasins. I used to watch my grandpa. He repaired saddles and did a lot of stuff for ranches around Idaho. He was the one that originally got me into realizing what tools to use and using rivets and all kinds of stuff like that. So, like I said before, over there its more about function than aesthetic. It’s (leather) a material that has its own identity when you're selecting it. My collection is still so small that I can hand pick hides to put in imperfections in certain places if I want them there. I think that leather, out of any fabric or any medium in fashion, is something that kind of takes on your identity as you wear it.
C: So I guess you might compare it to... Its almost like a living fabric sort of thing.
LN: I think so yeah. It definitely is. I can go buy the purest, most expensive silk out there. I mean its beautiful, but it needs to be molded into something- you know...
C: You have very very good symmetry... very good lines- very high quality to your work. What inspires you? What gives you that drive to reach that level of quality you achieve?
LN: (Laughter) I don't know if its drive or just being obsessive. I thought about this for years before I did it. Putting my name on a collection isn't like if I came out with a sub-line and called it- whatever- like Crystal Head or whatever you know. If that brand made lower quality stuff, and then maybe it went out of business, you could pop up and do it again. My name is on these pieces. The customer that’s purchasing is buying part of me when they're doing it. I think that its more of a respect thing. I don't want to be a flash in the pan. I'm very passionate about what I'm doing. If the process takes me that long to perfect the piece- then so be it- you know. At the end of the day, I'm a much happier person selling it to someone when I know they can appreciate it and have it in their closet for years to come.
C: Who would like to see wearing one of your creations that would be a compliment to create for?
LN- Daphne Guinness comes to mind instantly. But it doesn't have to be the most famous person. It could be somebody that like is truly embracing what the clothing is doing with them- you know. If its on stage, like a lead singer, that’s amazing to me. Yeah, Daphne Guinness... trying to think of some names. I don't have a TV...
C: So what do you find interesting to do in the city, and are there any places that you like to eat in the city?
LN: Well, trying to think... Things I like to do in the city... I ride my bike everyday. When I first moved to New York, my studio was on 39th and 9th and I was there seven days a week- all the time- and it kind of affected me you know. Just a change of pace, change of space. A change of so many different things.
The longer I've been here, the more I started to realize that riding your bike everywhere just gives you such a different perspective on the whole city. So, as far as places and areas that I enjoy hanging out... I've always kind of been the type of person that doesn't want to surround himself with people that are maybe the same age or just interested in the things I like. If I'm going to a bar, I would rather sit at a bar with a bunch of old fishermen than a bunch of 22 year olds. Monday I was all the way down in China Town eating dumplings and then for dinner I rode my bike all the way up to 116th- Spanish Harlem to get tacos. So I'm kind of all over the place. I try to be savvy about exploring places that aren't the hottest spot around.
C: I think I already know the answer to this question anyway, but what is your favorite material to work with, and what makes you connect with that material?
LN: (Laughter) Leather obviously. I just have a long history with it. Plus some of the first things that I ever made when I was a kid even, were leather moccasins. I used to watch my grandpa. He repaired saddles and did a lot of stuff for ranches around Idaho. He was the one that originally got me into realizing what tools to use and using rivets and all kinds of stuff like that. So, like I said before, over there its more about function than aesthetic. It’s (leather) a material that has its own identity when you're selecting it. My collection is still so small that I can hand pick hides to put in imperfections in certain places if I want them there. I think that leather, out of any fabric or any medium in fashion, is something that kind of takes on your identity as you wear it.
C: So I guess you might compare it to... Its almost like a living fabric sort of thing.
LN: I think so yeah. It definitely is. I can go buy the purest, most expensive silk out there. I mean its beautiful, but it needs to be molded into something- you know...
C: You have very very good symmetry... very good lines- very high quality to your work. What inspires you? What gives you that drive to reach that level of quality you achieve?
LN: (Laughter) I don't know if its drive or just being obsessive. I thought about this for years before I did it. Putting my name on a collection isn't like if I came out with a sub-line and called it- whatever- like Crystal Head or whatever you know. If that brand made lower quality stuff, and then maybe it went out of business, you could pop up and do it again. My name is on these pieces. The customer that’s purchasing is buying part of me when they're doing it. I think that its more of a respect thing. I don't want to be a flash in the pan. I'm very passionate about what I'm doing. If the process takes me that long to perfect the piece- then so be it- you know. At the end of the day, I'm a much happier person selling it to someone when I know they can appreciate it and have it in their closet for years to come.
C: Who would like to see wearing one of your creations that would be a compliment to create for?
LN- Daphne Guinness comes to mind instantly. But it doesn't have to be the most famous person. It could be somebody that like is truly embracing what the clothing is doing with them- you know. If its on stage, like a lead singer, that’s amazing to me. Yeah, Daphne Guinness... trying to think of some names. I don't have a TV...
"I used to watch my grandpa. He repaired saddles and did a lot of stuff for ranches around Idaho. He was the one that originally got me into realizing what tools to use and using rivets and all kinds of stuff like that."
-Logan
-Logan
Logan Neitzel's life before the
New York fashion scene |
C: Are there any other hobbies that you have that do not revolve around fashion?
LN: Yeah, lots. I used to be a big big white water kayaker. C: Wow LN: Yeah. So, I used to travel around wherever it was- Idaho, Montana, Wyoming, Utah and compete in white water kayaking and snowboarding. I dropped a 75 foot waterfall in my kayak before. Snowboarding. I used to rock climb a bunch. Fly fishing. My life honestly used to be like very very very outdoors. Since dedicating more of my life to fashion, I've had to drop off on a lot of what I used to do. I think I've always kind of had this built in angst and over-energy. I think that everything that I do kind of turns out to be to the extreme. Whether its snowboarding, or designing clothes. I have this built in thing to be as good as I can at something. C: Who has been one of the greatest supports in your life? LN- My family has always been supportive in anything that I've done. I think that I've frustrated them because I've tried to do so many different things. I laugh and tell people sometimes that one of the scariest days of my life was telling my dad that I wanted to go to school to be a fashion designer. (Laughter) They've always been supportive but not necessarily understanding of why or what I was doing. But I think they finally reached a point where they could go to a store that’s near them and pick up a magazine that my piece- or an interview is in. Since then, I think my parents are super supportive. My grandma's always been amazing. You know... I have a handful of friends. I'm not a total social butterfly, so I don't have a huge crew of friends. I'd rather have people that I would feel OK about risking my life for. Those are my true friends. □ |
Interview and article by Copeland/ Esthétique Magazine 2012